The Stories Behind the Stitch: Houndstooth

The Stories Behind the Stitch: Houndstooth

Pattern with Bite

This next chapter in our Stories Behind the Stitch series doesn’t require a passport stamp. We’re staying close to home with a textile that’s as British as drizzle and as recognisable as a Savile Row suit: houndstooth. A pattern with edge, literally, and a history you can read in the weave.

Working-Class Origins, Designer Destiny

The story starts in the Scottish Lowlands in the 1800s. Shepherds, battling cold and damp, wove woollen cloth in alternating light and dark threads. The broken check wasn’t a design flourish, it was simply the result of a practical twill weave: two threads over, two under. It camouflaged wear and tear, shrugged off bad weather, and lasted season after season.

Locals called it shepherd’s check or dogtooth. It was tough, dependable, and, let’s be honest, probably the last thing its makers expected to see on a Paris runway.

The Upgrade

By the 1930s, houndstooth had an unlikely champion: Edward VIII. The then Prince of Wales wore it in off-duty jackets, taking it from fields to the fairways and making it aspirational overnight.

From there, the pattern was adopted by the couture set. Christian Dior wrapped his Miss Dior perfume in houndstooth, transforming it into a graphic icon. Coco Chanel softened its edges in bouclé, proving it could be elegant as well as sharp. The 1960s gave it a Mod moment. The 1980s blew it up into statement coats. Punk re-appropriated it in acid colours. Few patterns have that kind of adaptability without losing their identity.

Why It Works Indoors

Houndstooth has a second career as an interiors workhorse, and for good reason:

• Durability – It was built for rough conditions, so heavy upholstery or everyday use is no problem.

• Structure – The repeating motif organises a space visually, adding precision without fuss.

• Versatility – Scale it down for a tailored, refined look; scale it up and it becomes bold, almost architectural.

In monochrome, it’s grounding and authoritative. In colour, it’s a statement-maker. Either way, it’s never background noise.

Alexander Maverick’s View

At AM, houndstooth hits our sweet spot: heritage pattern, modern relevance. It’s got just enough bite to stop a room from feeling polite, and enough history to anchor it in craft. We’ve used it in everything from tightly tailored armchairs to oversized cushions, and it always delivers that “considered but confident” vibe.

Wool will always give it the most depth and character, but newer fibre blends open opportunities for drapery and softer applications without losing the definition. It works beautifully on our Linen Union in Natural.

How to Use It Well

• Go big for drama – Oversized houndstooth on a sofa or feature chair is a guaranteed focal point.

• Stick to the weave – Printed imitations miss the point; you need the texture.

• Balance it – Let it breathe alongside solid fabrics, or layer it with fine-line patterns for a clever play on scale.

Houndstooth has been practical, political, preppy, and punk. In the right hands, it can also be the smartest move you make in a room.

Here’s your wildcard: our houndstooth is only available in ColourMe. That’s our custom design tool that lets you pick your own colourways, whether you want to keep it classic in monochrome or flip it into something unapologetically loud. Load it up, tweak the palette, and in a few clicks you’ve got a bespoke version of one of the most recognisable patterns in history. No one else’s will look like yours. That’s the point.